![]() I also swapped out the stock blue High Voltage Cable with my new replacement black tubing and craft wire inserts: If you didn’t see above, I already installed the High Voltage Terminal onto the replacement Distributor Cap. Fit one end of this cable onto the pin on top of the Ignition Coil and the other end to the High Voltage Terminal in the center of the Distributor Cap, as shown. Retrieve the High Voltage Cable from the previous stage. This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal: Secure the Coil Bracket to the Cover Plate as shown, driving one (1) KM screw into the same hole where the CM screw used to be: Retrieve your Ignition Coil and the KM screws from the previous stage. This CM screw is no longer needed, but leave the Cover Plate in place, as shown: Down inside the right side of the engine bay, remove this CM screw from the Front Right Chassis Beam Cover Plate (Piece 1) we installed back in Stage 9. Retrieve your Body assembly from the previous stage. ![]() After the Ignition Coil was installed in the steps below, I connected the rest of these new ‘spark plug wires’: I also inserted a length of 22 gauge Craft Wire into each piece of tubing to allow me to bend the tubing into the shape I wanted. I found this tubing on, but unfortunately the product I bought is no longer available. Reattach all eight of the Spark Plug Wires around the outer perimeter posts of the new Distributor Cap.Īt this point, I replaced all of my stock blue Spark Plug Wires with some black 1/16″ OD 0.6 mm ID PTFE tubing. Press the previous eight Connectors as well as this new High Voltage Terminal into the new Distributor Cap, as shown:įit the new Distributor back into the top of the Rotor: A pair of sprue cutters or a sharp hobby knife work best here: The Connectors will be reused, but the old Distributor Cap can be discarded:Ĭut one of the High Voltage Terminals from the sprue, as shown. Gently pull the Connectors out of the old Distributor Cap. Take care not to damage the plastic Rotor base: The Distributor Cap was just pushed in, so there are no screws holding it in place. I tried to leave the eight black Connectors in the old Distributor Cap for now:Ĭarefully pull the existing Distributor Cap up off of the Rotor. Replacing the Distributor Capĭisconnect all of the Spark Plug Wire Connectors from the existing Distributor Cap. At the same time, I decided to get rid of the tacky bright blue spark plug wires. BuildĪ replacement (corrected) Distributor Cap was supplied with the previous stage, so I wanted to describe the process to replace it. Materials: The Left Boot Panel is metal and the Fuel Hose is plastic. It looks like to get what I want I'll need to buy two sets to get the plug ends I need.“In this assembly session you will install the ignition coil in the engine housing and mount the left boot panel on I find it hard to believe that people actually buy some of those colors. And did I mention that I want traditional, 'normal'-sized black wires? Where color was an option when searching, that really cut down the choices. I figure I need 5 90 degree plug ends, 3 straights, and 90s at the distributor to yield a neat installation. But I can't seem to find exactly what I need. So I did a search in the usual places Jegs, Summit, some of the ignition outfits. And there's no 'give' in the Belden sets, they only fit as OEM. But the late style only comes with HEI-style ends at the distributor, I'm running the early non-electronic cap. But here's the issue I want the late-style routing around the end of the valve covers, not the over-the-covers routing of the early ones. My usual go-to is the specific-fit Belden sets sold by NAPA. Motor is a SBF, so you'd think no problem. Should be simple, right? Turns out not to be the case. I've been looking to replace the colored plug wires on my avatar.
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